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It is a warm sunny day in early August, the bus finally stops after a 5000 ft ascent and drops us off at
Tuolumne Meadows. Tomorrow we are going to start our hike back down into the Yosemite Valley. It will take us three days and two nights, the highest peak we will be passing is
Vogelsang High Sierra Camp at 11,000 feet. We will cover a distance of about 30 miles in varied
terrain.
That day we take a short hike on the nearby trails to get acclimated to the elevation and stay at
Tuolumne Meadows
that night. I say no thanks to the wine offered at dinner- as higher elevations make you more sensitive to alcohol, and I want to be fresh the next morning. Still nervous about elevations, blisters and my fitness level.
The next morning we gather up early for an oatmeal breakfast and then we're off! Stretching our legs, it feels good to get going. We cross a stream and the trail is starting to lead uphill. The loose group of 15 people lead by a ranger is making its way through the woods. No more cars, no more electricity, no more fumes for several days. For the next few days there will be just me, my friends, my borrowed backpack and the scenery around us.
After a few hours a mule train passes us and I find out that they are bringing supplies up to the other camps at higher elevations. There is no access for cars, and there are people living in the camps up there all summer. The mules take weekly trips bringing food out and garbage back.
Around lunchtime we get out of the woods, now walking above the tree line, the altitude above which trees do not grow. Steadily uphill, we all start feeling a little short of breath as we reach 7,500 feet. I feel like I am gasping for air through a straw. But the scenery is so spectacular; the shortness of breath is soon forgotten. Far in the distance I can see the
Vogelsang
Peak, we're camping at its foot tonight.
After a full day's walk we reach our camp for the night. Relieved we drop our packs and rest our now quite stinky and tired feet for a while. The well-deserved pasta dinner is welcomed by applause tastes like it was from the best Italian restaurant in New York-or maybe we were just hungry. After dinner we go exploring. The plateau has a couple of clear lakes with melting ice still filling them up. Around us dusk starts falling and the skies light up in oranges and pinks. We're asleep before nine o'clock.
It is pitch black before I open my eyes and see a sliver of light coming through the tent. I'm wide-awake and wonder what time it is as I decide to go outside and see what that curious light is. Outside the tent the mountains and the valley plateau is bathing in a silver shimmer. It is light enough for me to check my wristwatch, 1:30 AM.
I have never seen moonlight like this. It is so clear that I see the rocky path in front of me, and the few contorted trees that are persisting above the tree line are casting shadows on the ground. The whole scene is magical and I wish I could run and tell somebody, but I decide my hiking partners would not appreciate me waking them for moonlight...
The next morning is very cold. After a hearty breakfast we are all bundled up and start climbing up to get over
Vogelsang
Pass. The trail is rocky and I have to pay attention to where I step, not to trip and fall. Trailing along we pass a couple of icy lakes, with colors bluer than the sky.
My feet are happy and there are no signs of blisters. I thank my lucky stars and the double-sock-advice I got from a friend. "Wear a thin moisture wicking socks under a pair of thick wool socks, pull them tight when you put your boots on so there are no wrinkles and you'll be better off - trust me on this." My friend was right it does work. Happy feet are priceless on a trip like this I think to myself as I see the faint limp and the strained facial expressions of some of my hiking partners.
Our group finally reaches the top of the pass and we get the breathtaking views of the other side. We see vast vistas of mountains in the distance and a lush, green valley spreading below us. My sore calves are a low price in comparison to the views, and it'll all be easy downhill from here I think to myself. We start heading down toward the valley.
Now who said walking uphill is harder than walking downhill? The trail is steep and rocky, and we all have to concentrate at every step not to step on a loose rock and twist an ankle. Even a minor ankle sprain out here would be a real problem. The weight of the backpack adds extra pounds and gives your upper thighs a serious workout.
Before noon we reach the tree line and start walking in the rich green vegetation again along
Lyell
Creek. It is warm and we welcome the shadow of the trees.
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Only two days out, it feels like I have been here forever.
The civilization is far away, and my thoughts are occupied
with the walking, the nature and the intermittent
conversation with my trail mates.
Before
the start of the hike, our ranger made us promise not to
talk to each other about our jobs or lives back home. This
way we can completely disconnect from our daily lives.
We reach a stream and the only way to get across is by walking over a fallen log. The log is slick in some spots, and full of knots from branches in other. As a novice hiker this crossing is scary, especially with a backpack affecting the balance. But after some coaxing we all get over to the other side and nobody falls in. By now we are all hungry, but decide to hike on for another few miles.
Finally we stop for lunch at the shore of a lake that is so still you can use it as a mirror. It reflects the steep mountains surrounding it. We sit by the water, dipping our feet and making stone pillars by balancing rocks and stones end on end. Life is perfect.
In the afternoon some of us get separated when one part of the group decides to take a break in one spot and we in another. After our rest they are nowhere to be found. Thinking we are behind them we decide to try to catch up. We end up marching for hours on end in loose sand - now THAT is a great workout with a backpack
I finish all the water I have on the trail, glad that I brought it along despite its extra weight. We walk down toward our last night camp and discover that we are about an hour in front of our trail mates- not behind them. When we reach
Merced Lake we are greeted with dinner at the camp. Again, the food is delicious and I wish simple dishes like pasta with tomato sauce tasted this good at home. Everybody is too tired for much exploration after dinner. We wash up, and go to bed early - sleeping like logs until the wakeup call.
The next morning we are all excited about having only one more day to go. Not because we want the adventure to end, but because we feel like adventurers nearing to the final goal or like pioneers having crossed the continent.
The last morning we head out on the trail and again we are heading downhill. Today will be the longest stretch. We trek along a canyon with slick granite walls with the water rushing down at the bottom. The scenery becomes more rugged and dramatic. We are out of the highland and are approaching the valley. The final stretch is to hike down the side of two waterfalls,
Nevada and Vernal
Falls. It is much slower than we anticipate as the rocks are treacherous and the trail resembles a huge staircase where the vertical distance of the steps down are easily two feet in places.
As we start to approach the valley in the lower trails, we start meeting more people that are doing day hikes. We feel rugged and dirty compared to them. We feel like real pioneers hiking out of the mountains
It is fun to see so many people
having so quickly forgotten what civilization feels like.
The closer we get to the end of the trail, the more we start to drag our feet. Not really because of fatigue, but more because we realize that it is the end of the wonderful hike we have had and without admitting it we try to stretch it out.
As we reach the end of the trail, we take the customary victory pictures and decide to catch a shuttle bus back to the car that we left in
Curry Village since it is starting to get dark. We burst out laughing as the speed of the bus (a whopping 25 mph) makes us almost dizzy, it is such a contrast from the walking speed we are now used to.
We get to Curry Village and with what little energy we have left, we rush to the showers. As good as the hot shower feels, as eagerly would I have continued hiking for another week
now an almost seasoned hiker
.
We have all made new friends, experienced the breathtaking beauty of nature, the fresh clean air, and gotten plenty of exercise. All together it has made this an unforgettable experience.
If you are interested in hiking in Yosemite, check out the Yosemite website or if you would like to hike in another of the beautiful national parks in the US, visit the
National Park Service.
The right equipment is very important. Not that you have to spend a lot of money on it, you can borrow or rent. Just make sure you get good advice from experienced hikers before you go on a shopping spree. Good outdoors outfitters are
Patagonia, REI ,
REI-Outlet.com and Adventure Sports Online.
Have fun; maybe we'll meet out on the trails!!!
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